Nicolas Ghesquière’s first Louis Vuitton collection {Fall 2014 RTW}

To great anticipation, the dawn of Ghesquière‘s Vuitton has arrived; he has been off the scene for a year and a half since leaving Balenciaga, and dearly missed. Much speculation revolved around his premiere collection for the luxury label. We were all wondering where Ghesquière would move after fourteen years of Marc Jacobs at the helm. 

“Today is a new day. A big day…Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this moment…Above all, immense joy.” -Nicolas Ghesquière {said in his open letter left on every seat}

The set was quite subdue, compared to Jacob’s more extravagant set designs, although the show took place in the Louvre’s courtyard where Marc Jacob’s held previous LV shows.  The minimal set allowed the large collection to stand alone, which was chiefly built on wearable separates.  Slight A-line cut at the thigh, was the show’s predominant silhouette, and was reminiscent of the 1960s on the cusp of the 70s.

“I salute the work of Marc Jacobs, whose legacy I wholeheartedly hope to honour.” -Nicolas Ghesquière

There were nods to Jacob’s Vuitton and house’s heritage of leather goods, however Ghesquière’s aesthetic shone through. Solids juxtaposed with the Victorian floral prints, knit skirts adorned with hand-cut feathers and molded leather bodices and knit skirts aswirl with hand-cut feathers; however his famous flair for experimentation was quite scaled back. This was a smart move of Nicolas Ghesquière’s behalf. Rocking the boat on the first time out may not have been well accepted, instead paying slight homage, while moving the brand around the corner into a new direction.

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A Closer Look at the New Handbags

Known for its luxury bags, everyone waited with bated breathe to see where Mr. Ghesquière would take the label’s most successful asset. Destined to be the new ‘it’ bag, the Petite Malle bag, a miniature LV trunk was already seen in the front row of the show.  Featuring paper bag clutches, croc skin duffels, subtle geometric prints, as well as bringing the classic monogram into a new, yet very 60s print; will make way for the new direction Louis Vuitton will go in under Ghesquière’s reign.

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The Open Letter from Nicolas Ghesquière

“Today is a new day. A big day. You are about to witness my first fashion show for Louis Vuitton. Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this moment… Above all, immense joy at being here, in the knowledge that my stylistic expression is at one with the Louis Vuitton philosophy. The proud legacy. The inspiring history that looks to the future and to the world. The quest for authenticity and innovation. Does not every designer ultimately seek to create something timeless?”

-Nicolas Ghesquière
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Chanel on Aisle 4: Fall 2014 RTW

“If you want to look really ridiculous, you go in stilettos in a supermarket.”  – Karl Lagerfeld

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Cara Delevingne, Joan Smalls and Rihanna extended their fun nature to the Chanel catwalk after the iconic French label’s Paris Fashion Week AW14/15 show on Tuesday

The Grand Palais was transformed into a 139,930-square-foot Chanel shopping centre. Complete with shelf upon shelf of Chanel transformed products, including:

• coconuts (‘Lait de Coco’)
• packets of Chanel toast stamped with the interlocking CC logo
• Chanel teas (‘Little Black Tea’, ‘Very Early Grey’)
•  Chanel doormats (‘Mademoiselle Prive’)
• Chanel feather dusters
• Chanel rubber gloves (labeled ‘So Chic’)
• a Chanel chainsaw 
• Also, a cheese stall (giant wheels of parmesan), vegetables, dairy products, mountains of tins of caviar, wines, spirits, olive oil. 

The collection was smart and sporty. Filled with pops of exuberant colors and shapes that stood out among the market shelves.  Continuing from the Chanel couture collection last month, all the models feet were donned in trainers, this time crafted out of classic Chanel tweeds and exotic skins. Because as Lagerfeld explains it, “If you want to look really ridiculous, you go in stilettos in a supermarket.” 

This collection included nods to classic Chanel as well as playful contemporary notes;  timeless tweed coats, legging-style trousers, leather opera gloves, baggy metallic trousers, and the chain link necklaces with oversized padlocks. This collection seems to be an attempt, on Lagerfeld’s behalf, to make a statement on fashion’s involvement in our everyday lives, just as the supermarket. 

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Alexander McQueen Fall 2014 RTW

Inspired by a “Wild beauty,” Sarah Burton created a magical world on the heather covered runway in Paris. “I wanted to see the woman’s face again,” she said. “Free her a bit, touch her, feel her.” With this in mind the collection was filled with trapeze silhouettes allowing these McQueen models room to move. Paired with this freedom shaping, were the ethereal empire gowns, creating column-like beauties.

“And there’s kind of an innocence, but stripped back and liberated.” – Sarah Burton

Breathtaking elaborate textures were so beautifully done that they were at first believed to be prints. Hand-cut feathers, fox pom-poms, 3-D tulle flowers, crystal stars, cotton eyelet, broderie anglaise and goat fur were all among the delicate surface details, allowing this collection to bridge the gap of Ready-to-wear and couture.

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BCBG Max Azria {Fall 2014}

NYFW has officially begun, with BCBG Max Azria up first, with the collection which marks their 25th Anniversary.  Not a retrospective, but features elements that have become synonymous with the BCBG name. Combining different fabrics, geometrical color-blocking and asymmetrical silhouettes, were among the details representing the label. Another prominent element was the use of fur in many of the looks. Always the controversial piece, faux-fur vs. fur-real, this collection was quite a way to kick-off fashion week!

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Paris Spring/Summer 2014 Couture Collections

Here is the list of Couture Collections from Paris from the Spring/Summer 2014 season. Click the links for the full collections and reviews:

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

ALEXIS MABILLE
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

BOUCHRA JARRAR
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

CHANEL
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

CHARLIE LE MINDU
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

CHRISTIAN DIOR
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

ELIE SAAB
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVE
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

OSCAR CARVALLO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

RALPH & RUSSO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

SCHIAPARELLI
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

STEPHANE ROLAND
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

ULYANA SERGEENKO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

VALENTINO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

VERSACE
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

VIKTOR + ROLF
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

VIONNET
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

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Valentino {Spring Couture 2014}

Valentino Spring Couture collection, inspired by set designer Maurizio Varamo of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma who they commissioned him to design the floor coverings through the salons of the Hôtel de Salomon Rothschild. Fantastical and ethereal, including the gown featuring a Lucas Cranach-inspired pictorial of Adam and Eve before the fall.

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Viktor+Rolf {Spring Couture 2014}

Tressed out ballerinas walking en pointe took the stage at Viktor+Rolf’s Spring Couture show. These were no average ballerinas, they had an edge to them. The designers went a different route than the typical fabrics worn by these dancers, the collection was made of flesh-colored Latex.  “We wanted to treat Latex as something soft, which it isn’t,” Snoeren said.

The dreamlike quality to the collection can be attributed to the tattoo-like prints of bows and ruffles, which were hand-painted on the Latex. This was even more evident when the birds were lifting drapes of the skirts in their beaks— as if they were in a Disney musical. 

This collection was fitting as the designers have been asked by the Dutch National Ballet to costume a new work by Finnish choreographer Jorma Elo debuting in April.

The end of the show was quite exciting, as they opened a banner unveiling Bonbon, the house’s new women’s scent! I am a huge fan of both their FlowerBomb and SpiceBomb, I cannot wait to see… rather, smell, what Bonbon will be!

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Jean Paul Gaultier {Spring Couture 2014}

Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture collection was a story of a beautiful butterfly.

Some silhouettes created a cocoon-like shape, and others were reminiscent of the shape of butterflies, some more obvious than others. The sheer lace looked as if the models were wrapped delicately in the wings of the butterflies. Filled with opulent colors of the winged beauties’ kingdom. The leather was beautifully treated with iridescent coating, suggesting shimmering wings.

And how wonderful is Dita von Teese as a butterfly? It was the role she was born to do!

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Elie Saab {Spring 2014 Couture}

Glitter! That is the most important thing to take away from this Elie Saab Couture collection. Babies would love it, as well as women {it’s a theory I have}.  The music was this fantastic pairing of romantic old Hollywood music with perfect transitions into Queen Bey!

Once again, he pulls off the glitter sequins in an elegant way, using them to create subtle patterns and lines. Once again sheer fabrics showed up on the runway {it is a very big trend this Spring/Summer}. On some gowns he paired the sheer with stiff satin, which created a balanced contrast. Details of crystal pleating as well as beautiful delicate appliqués brought the chiffon to life.

One of the most exquisite sets were the floral gowns. The ball gown in satin looked as if it were an extravagant oil painting, and that same print translated onto the chiffon, created another medium entirely, water-colour.

The color story started off soft; from blush pinks, white, steel blue, to the contrasting metallic gold and black {including black smokey ombré}.

The final bridal gown was absolutely breathtaking. Stunning champagne continuing with the appliqués and complete with the outrageous veil turned train.

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Maison Martin Margiela {Spring 2014 Couture}

Maison Martin Margiela’s Couture ‘Artisanal’ collection was appropriately called that with a heavy focus on artisan prints. Margiela took this season’s colorblocking trend a step further with print-blocking, and created heavy geometric lines.

The great range of prints: bold flower, african influence, eastern, geometric, faux tattoo, and Faces print, which we have seen popping up as a trend on a few runways including, Prada, Stella McCartney + Jean Paul Gaultier. To be noted was the print created by the heavy glass beads, chain, and buttons on the headpieces, dress and jackets.

The futuristic metallic gold metal twill boots and alien/insect-like masks paired with the old world art created a beautiful paradox. Earlier in the collection the amplified use of  the selvage edge was a contrast to the later more opulent looks, including the tapestry coats. One of which stood out; the coccoon coat which felt very Poiret.

This collection stayed true to its ‘Artisanal’ name. It took us out of the traditional couture, and it was almost as if we were walking through marketplaces throughout time.

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