Erdem Resort 2015

Typically one could look to an Erdem collection for a purely feminine experience, this time out Moralioglu was striving for a hybrid, which left what we knew of the designer behind, in the same token, still feeling very Erdem.

His traditional femininity was still very prominent, but with an edge as if someone had overthrown and English garden party. I love that he started with what he knows, and his voice as a designer and then he asked himself “How can I fuck them up?”  — Morolioglu proves that he doesn’t take himself too seriously, and that he continues to grow as an artist and designer.

“I was thinking of boyishness — there’s a relaxed masculinity to it,” said Erdem Moralioglu

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Nicolas Ghesquière’s first Louis Vuitton collection {Fall 2014 RTW}

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To great anticipation, the dawn of Ghesquière‘s Vuitton has arrived; he has been off the scene for a year and a half since leaving Balenciaga, and dearly missed. Much speculation revolved around his premiere collection for the luxury label. We were all wondering where Ghesquière would move after fourteen years of Marc Jacobs at the helm. 

“Today is a new day. A big day…Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this moment…Above all, immense joy.” -Nicolas Ghesquière {said in his open letter left on every seat}

Louis Vuitton

The set was quite subdue, compared to Jacob’s more extravagant set designs, although the show took place in the Louvre’s courtyard where Marc Jacob’s held previous LV shows.  The minimal set allowed the large collection to stand alone, which was chiefly built on wearable separates.  Slight A-line cut at the thigh, was the show’s predominant silhouette, and was reminiscent of the 1960s on the cusp of the 70s.

“I salute the work of Marc Jacobs, whose legacy I wholeheartedly hope to honour.” -Nicolas Ghesquière

There were nods to Jacob’s Vuitton and house’s heritage of leather goods, however Ghesquière’s aesthetic shone through. Solids juxtaposed with the Victorian floral prints, knit skirts adorned with hand-cut feathers and molded leather bodices and knit skirts aswirl with hand-cut feathers; however his famous flair for experimentation was quite scaled back. This was a smart move of Nicolas Ghesquière’s behalf. Rocking the boat on the first time out may not have been well accepted, instead paying slight homage, while moving the brand around the corner into a new direction.

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A Closer Look at the New Handbags

Known for its luxury bags, everyone waited with bated breathe to see where Mr. Ghesquière would take the label’s most successful asset. Destined to be the new ‘it’ bag, the Petite Malle bag, a miniature LV trunk was already seen in the front row of the show.  Featuring paper bag clutches, croc skin duffels, subtle geometric prints, as well as bringing the classic monogram into a new, yet very 60s print; will make way for the new direction Louis Vuitton will go in under Ghesquière’s reign.

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The Open Letter from Nicolas Ghesquière

“Today is a new day. A big day. You are about to witness my first fashion show for Louis Vuitton. Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this moment… Above all, immense joy at being here, in the knowledge that my stylistic expression is at one with the Louis Vuitton philosophy. The proud legacy. The inspiring history that looks to the future and to the world. The quest for authenticity and innovation. Does not every designer ultimately seek to create something timeless?”

-Nicolas Ghesquière
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Rihanna Making the Rounds at Paris Fashion Week

Rihanna has been spotted all around Paris at many of the bigger fashion house’s runway shows. Most notably in a grocery cart at Chanel’s Supermarket runway spectacle.

Cara Delevingne, Joan Smalls and Rihanna extended their fun nature to the Chanel catwalk after the iconic French label's Paris Fashion Week AW14/15 show on Tuesday

Cara Delevingne, Joan Smalls and Rihanna extended their fun nature to the Chanel catwalk after the iconic French label’s Paris Fashion Week AW14/15 show on Tuesday

CHANEL {in Chanel}
Chanel | Rihanna in Chanel

 

CHRISTIAN DIOR {in Dior}

Christian Dior | Rihanna in DiorGIVENCHY {in Givenchy}
Givenchy | Rihanna in Givenchy

JEAN PAUL GAULTIERJean Paul Gaultier | Rihanna

LANVINLanvin | Rihanna

MIU MIU {Jared Leto + Rihanna in Prada}Miu Miu | Rihanna and Jared Leto in Prada

STELLA MCCARTNEY {in Stella McCartney}Stella McCartney | Rihanna in Stella McCartney

Which look is your favourite of Rihanna’s so far?

Chanel on Aisle 4: Fall 2014 RTW

“If you want to look really ridiculous, you go in stilettos in a supermarket.”  – Karl Lagerfeld

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The Grand Palais was transformed into a 139,930-square-foot Chanel shopping centre. Complete with shelf upon shelf of Chanel transformed products, including:

  • coconuts (‘Lait de Coco’)
  • packets of Chanel toast stamped with the interlocking CC logo
  • Chanel teas (‘Little Black Tea’, ‘Very Early Grey’)
  •  Chanel doormats (‘Mademoiselle Prive’)
  • Chanel feather dusters
  • Chanel rubber gloves (labeled ‘So Chic’)
  • a Chanel chainsaw 
  • Also, a cheese stall (giant wheels of parmesan), vegetables, dairy products, mountains of tins of caviar, wines, spirits, olive oil. 

The collection was smart and sporty. Filled with pops of exuberant colors and shapes that stood out among the market shelves.  Continuing from the Chanel couture collection last month, all the models feet were donned in trainers, this time crafted out of classic Chanel tweeds and exotic skins. Because as Lagerfeld explains it, “If you want to look really ridiculous, you go in stilettos in a supermarket.” 

This collection included nods to classic Chanel as well as playful contemporary notes;  timeless tweed coats, legging-style trousers, leather opera gloves, baggy metallic trousers, and the chain link necklaces with oversized padlocks. This collection seems to be an attempt, on Lagerfeld’s behalf, to make a statement on fashion’s involvement in our everyday lives, just as the supermarket. 

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Alexander McQueen Fall 2014 RTW

Inspired by a “Wild beauty,” Sarah Burton created a magical world on the heather covered runway in Paris. “I wanted to see the woman’s face again,” she said. “Free her a bit, touch her, feel her.” With this in mind the collection was filled with trapeze silhouettes allowing these McQueen models room to move. Paired with this freedom shaping, were the ethereal empire gowns, creating column-like beauties.

“And there’s kind of an innocence, but stripped back and liberated.” – Sarah Burton

Breathtaking elaborate textures were so beautifully done that they were at first believed to be prints. Hand-cut feathers, fox pom-poms, 3-D tulle flowers, crystal stars, cotton eyelet, broderie anglaise and goat fur were all among the delicate surface details, allowing this collection to bridge the gap of Ready-to-wear and couture.

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BCBG Max Azria {Fall 2014}

NYFW has officially begun, with BCBG Max Azria up first, with the collection which marks their 25th Anniversary.  Not a retrospective, but features elements that have become synonymous with the BCBG name. Combining different fabrics, geometrical color-blocking and asymmetrical silhouettes, were among the details representing the label. Another prominent element was the use of fur in many of the looks. Always the controversial piece, faux-fur vs. fur-real, this collection was quite a way to kick-off fashion week!

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Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda {Spring 2014}

Dolce & Gabbana do couture a little differently than the rest. Only a small number of editors are invited to the show. Rather, the audience is filled with friends and their client of the top-spending variety. And more surprisingly, no celebrities will be wearing these pieces come Oscar night. The couture pieces are true to their name, one-of-a-kind, and works on a first-come, first-served basis.

This is only the house’s 4th couture collection,  the inspiration behind which was to turn women into living pieces of art. After negotiations with some international museums to secure the rights, literal replications of Van Gogh’s sunflowers, Manet’s white lilacs, Redon’s anemones, a Klimt sunflower, and Renoir works, were all seen throughout the collection.

Each piece was more magical than the last, creating a beautiful world full of unique florals, grandiose ballgown silhouettes of tulle, and elaborate headpieces.

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Designer Feature: Araks {Thanks to January Jones}

Yesterday January Jones posted an image on Instagram where she gives Banksy a run for his money. She looks absolutely fabulous, but I couldn’t get over the stunning jewel-tone top she was wearing. Crushing on it so hard, I asked her who it was by, she said Araks. Now, I am in love!

Little background: Araks was launched as a luxury lingerie line back in 2000 by Parsons grad Araks Yeramyan. She caught the eyes of some stylish celebrities, including Sofia Copola, who had Scarlett Johansson wearing Araks lingerie in her film Lost in Translation.  In 2004 Yeramyan added swimwear to her collection, and then Ready-to-wear in 2006 in New York.

DELPHINA TOP IN WAVE FLORAL PRINT +
BLYTHER TROUSER IN ARANTHERA WAVE WOOL SILK TWILL

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See Araks’ latest Spring 2014 RTW collection here:

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Paris Spring/Summer 2014 Couture Collections

lexandre-vauthier

Here is the list of Couture Collections from Paris from the Spring/Summer 2014 season. Click the links for the full collections and reviews:

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

ALEXIS MABILLE
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

BOUCHRA JARRAR
BOUCHRA JARRAR
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

CHANEL
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

CHARLIE LE MINDU
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

CHRISTIAN DIOR
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

Elie Saab
ELIE SAAB
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVE
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

Margiela
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

OSCAR CARVALLO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

RALPH & RUSSO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

SCHIAPARELLI
SCHIAPARELLI
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

STEPHANE ROLAND
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

ULYANA SERGEENKO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

VALENTINO
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

VERSACE
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

Viktor + Rolf
VIKTOR + ROLF
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}

VIONNET
{SPRING/SUMMER 2014 | COUTURE}